12-Hydroxystearic Acid
Cosmetic Grade Solid Flakes
INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid · CAS 106-14-9 · Solid Flakes · 100% Active · Vegetable-Based
Need a larger quantity? Reach out — support@inci-vault.com
12-Hydroxystearic Acid is a cosmetic-grade hydroxy fatty acid supplied as solid flakes. It is used as a thickener, gellant, emulsion stabilizer, and film-forming agent across a wide range of skin care, lip care, and color cosmetic formulations.
| INCI Name | CAS | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Hydroxystearic Acid | 106-14-9 | Emollient · Thickener · Gellant · Viscosity modifier · Film former |
| Property | Value |
|---|---|
| Appearance | White or slightly yellow flaky solid |
| INCI name | Hydroxystearic Acid |
| CAS number | 106-14-9 |
| EINECS | 203-366-1 |
| Molecular formula | C18H36O3 |
| Molecular weight | 300.48 |
| Activity | 100% |
| Melting point | ≥73°C |
| Solubility | Oil soluble · insoluble in water |
| Origin | Vegetable-based · non-animal derived |
| Shelf life | 24 months |
| Storage | Room temperature · keep sealed · protect from direct light |
| Certificate of Analysis | Download COA → |
| Product Data Sheet | Download PDS → |
| Application | Usage Rate |
|---|---|
| Cosmetic & leave-on skin care | 1–5%* |
| Lip balms, lipsticks & lip care | 1–5%* |
| Color cosmetics & stick formulations | 1–5%* |
| Personal care (shampoos, body washes) | As required |
| Higher use levels | Up to 10%* |
* Recommended use level for cosmetic and leave-on formulations. Overall safe concentration may reach up to 10% depending on product type.
- Add to the oil phase — melt above 75°C and incorporate into the heated oil phase before cooling
- Provides thickening and gelling functionality in anhydrous formulations — effective at low use levels
- Produces a smooth, non-greasy skin feel and a fine, uniform texture in finished products
- Ideal structurant for lipsticks, lip balms, and solid stick formulations alongside waxes and butters
- Helps stabilize emulsions by improving the consistency of the oil phase
- Forms a film on the skin surface — supports moisture retention and improves product adhesion
- Compatible with a wide range of oils, waxes, esters, and silicones
- Intended use: Our products are provided for the exclusive purpose of creating external cosmetic and personal care formulations. They are not intended for internal use.
- Creator's liability: INCI VAULT is a supplier of ingredients and is not responsible for the final products you create. The responsibility for ensuring product safety, stability, and regulatory compliance rests entirely with you. This includes conducting thorough testing of all formulas.
- Professional guidance: If you do not have an advanced background in cosmetic science, we advise seeking the guidance of a professional formulator or chemist.
- FDA statement: The information and statements contained herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not designed to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
Need a larger quantity? Reach out — support@inci-vault.com
12-Hydroxystearic Acid (INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid · CAS 106-14-9) is a vegetable-based hydroxy fatty acid supplied as solid flakes. Thickener, gellant, film former, and emulsion stabilizer. 100% active. Recommended use level 1–5% in cosmetic and leave-on formulations; use levels may reach up to 10% depending on product type. Oil soluble. 24-month shelf life.
- Lip balms and lipsticks — 1–5% as a structurant and thickener alongside butters and waxes
- Body butters and anhydrous balms — 1–5% as a thickener and gellant for firm, smooth texture
- Lotions and creams — 1–5% to stabilize the oil phase and improve emulsion consistency
- Color cosmetics and stick foundations — 1–5% for structuring and viscosity modification in solid and stick formats
- Shampoos and conditioners — viscosity adjustment and conditioning in personal care systems
- Hair pomades and styling waxes — viscosity modification and texture in solid hair styling products
| What is 12-Hydroxystearic Acid used for?A cosmetic-grade hydroxy fatty acid used as a thickener, gellant, film former, and emulsion stabilizer in lotions, creams, lip care, color cosmetics, and anhydrous stick formulations. Builds structure, improves viscosity, and enhances skin feel. |
| What is the recommended usage rate?Recommended use level is 1–5% in cosmetic and leave-on skin care formulations. Use levels may reach up to 10% depending on the specific product type. |
| Is it vegetable-based and non-animal derived?Yes — vegetable-based and non-animal derived. USDA Certified Biobased Product at 98%, BSE/TSE free, no GMOs, no animal testing, and registered for REACh. |
| How do I incorporate it into formulations?Melt above 75°C and incorporate into the heated oil phase before cooling. Provides thickening and gelling functionality in anhydrous formulations. Oil soluble and insoluble in water — not suitable for water-phase addition. |
| How should it be stored?Room temperature in a sealed container away from direct light. Shelf life 24 months from date of manufacture. |
Note: 12-Hydroxystearic Acid pairs well with INCI VAULT's Triisostearin for anhydrous systems — Triisostearin contributes emolliency and a lightweight skin feel while 12-Hydroxystearic Acid provides the structural backbone, allowing formulators to dial in texture and firmness without relying on petrolatum-derived waxes.
